Here it is again! I can’t believe that London Fashion Week A/W09 is here already. Long gone are the over the top shows we are used to seeing in London; As well as the Opulent goody bags. Fashion week, too, felt the credit crunch. However, that didn’t stop the fashion pack from coming out in droves as LFW celebrates 25 years of British fashion. Having said that, tickets to shows were limited, therefore; there were loads of us standing and jostling for position. The predominant colour at fashion week was black. As Editors, stylists and buyers played it safe, it’s so uncouth to be over dressed in hard times (as with the Oscars most people wore black even my favourite Vicky B…) So, I kicked off fashion week by seeing the Richard Nicoll show. I had just squeezed my way in when the show started. Richard Nicoll’s collection was of course a “must see” and in my opinion, his 7th appearance at LFW was totally brilliant. His collection was very minimalist and stuck to a white, neutral and stone palette which was just really sexy, grown up and gorgeous. Bod con dresses, A-line high waist skirts, as well as high waist trousers and corsets. He was a little adventurous with prints and this set the tone for his grown up play on sexuality and femininity.
The most anticipated show of the season was the Twenty8Twelve collection by Sienna Miller and her sister, Savannah, who both appeared wearing short black belted dresses and thick black tights at the end to take a bow. Their collection consisted of shoulder-padded shirts, tuxedo jackets, sparkly dresses, Pale Macs, cashmere and Floral, a mix of Sienna’s punk style and her love of everything Boho as tea dresses were teamed with edgy biker jackets. This was a quintessentially British her front row roaster was very interesting with, Kanye West and his new girlfriend, Marie Rose in attendance. As well as Courtney love.
PPQ, as usual, had a star studded audience which included, Daisy Lowe, Pixie Geldof and Alice Dellal. They showcased a fun collection of vivid rainbow colours and broad stripes. I love PPQ and really think that their fashion focus will forever be on the “cool young girl” and most elder states ladies of fashion weren’t in attendance. A Very vibrant show with a very attentive audience, I even spotted Nicola from Girls aloud in the audience.
Luella : I have come to expect nothing but perfection from. Luella, who is one of my fashion idols ( she used to be a PR girl like me, so inspiring) and for A/W09 his influence and strategy was clearly evident: attention to fine details and a much tighter collection that plays to Luella’s strengths and unique style. Wool trousers, twin sets, pearls, Military coats with brass buttons, cropped quilted bombers, gold brocade trousers topped off with grungy pony tails and plaits. Luella has never been afraid to think outside the box as well as solicit help from her other designer pals, as Katie Hiller’s bags ( which were designed for Luella’s A/W09 Collection) and Georgina Goodman who produced the shoes which were amazing. To top, Pixie Geldof strutted the runway for Luella looking fabulous in a gold and black brocade dress.
Christopher Kane: Kane’s latest collection was one of his most beautiful to date. Plaid jumpers that paid homage to his Scottish heritage, black leather flying jackets with cosy shearling collars, skinny tuxedo trousers with velvet ribbon side stripes, to die for crushed velvet Chelsea boots and beautiful signature chiffon panelled dresses, are all the star pieces we can’t wait to cosy up to in next autumn. Lending his directional feminine style a unique modish edge for autumn via black and white ribbon stripes, razor sharp tailoring and those velvet Chelsea circa 1960 and very “shagadelic”. Kane has given us all a great sense of style for A/W09. Chiffon paneled dress with brogues, cropped trouser with a Chelsea boots topped off with a leather jacket.
Giles: I LOVE HIM! He is one of the most talented people in fashion today and one of the nicest. His A/W09 collection can be summed up in one word, AMAZING. The production of the show in my opinion, was the most credible I have seen in recent years. The show started with eighties supermodel, Rachel Williams in a gray flannel bustier dress , the front row of senior editors broke catwalk protocol and cracked smiles when they saw Rachel strutting her stuff, I am sure they were reminiscing yester years.
Katie Grand as usual did her thing and the styling was truly inspiring to me, I’m sure ill be nicking her ideas next season. The collection was a trip down memory lane for Giles as a few pieces on the catwalk were from his graduate show in 1992. Rubber spikes, metal spikes, leather skirts, Latex T-shirts, tiger-prints, exploded prints and safety pins. Ever the gentleman, Giles explained his collection with this quote, “I just thought I wanted to go back to what got me into fashion in the first place. I graduated from Central Saint Martins in 1992 and I wanted to recapture all of the fun we had playing with things in those days. So the collection is a revisiting of all the things of my own that I’ve liked—and hopefully an improvement on.”
House of Holland: This once again brought the house down. My friend Henry is defying his critics and soldering on, 3 collections for fashion week later. Henry is re-enforcing the fact that House of Holland is here to stay. His other half and best mate supermodel, Agyness Denn, opened the show in a jacket, skinny pants, tights, and shoes, each item striped with different tones of green and white. Then came purple (my favourite) and a variety of pastel colours. This collection was fresh and graphically simple and pleasing to the eye. Love him, loved the collection.
So, as i settle down to write this blog and as Milan starts, recession or not, fashion will continue to evolve. The current state of the global economy has, if anything, ignited passion and flair from the designers in London. The most daring and individualistic fashion capital of the world.